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Moda y estilo en la Ruta del Bakalao: los once looks 'bakala' que marcaron tendencia Los "bakalas" iban a todas las fiestas con su cazadora 'biker'.
En los 80 y los 90 no había redes sociales, por tanto, se copiaba el outfit de los grupos musicales y de tus ídolos preferidos según salían por la tele o aparecían en las revistas. En esos años Valencia se llenó de "bakalas", cientos de jóvenes que buscaban divertirse en la Ruta del Bakalao al ritmo del techno en discotecas y en sus respectivos aparcamientos. Muchos en Uppers vivimos o heredamos la moda y el estilo de la Ruta del Bakalao: los looks 'bakala' que marcaron tendencia llenaron nuestro fondo de armario para quedarse.
La Ruta del Bakalao discurría por la Carretera del Saler de Valencia y consistía en ir parando en las discotecas que se fueron abriendo desde los años 80 hasta los 90. Barraca, Espiral, NOD, ACTV, The Face, Spook, Puzzle, Heaven o Chocolate abrían sus puertas el viernes y no cerraban hasta el lunes de madrugada. Dentro un DJ ponía música techno y se organizaban conciertos que empezaban a las 7 de la mañana. En la calle la fiesta se prolongaba en el parking de arena encendiendo el radiocasete del coche.
En sus inicios , en la Ruta del Bakalao se escuchaba hard techno y al hard trance , dos estilos musicales que provenían directamente de Berlín , Alemania, y eran una auténtica novedad. También se pusieron de moda The Pretenders, The Cure, Depeche Mode y otros grupos que despuntaban en Londres. Después, esa diversión se popularizó y en las discotecas se empezaron a pinchar temas mucho más comerciales.
La Ruta también tenía su propia moda , pero era muy diversa porque el techno gustaba a muchos tipos de personas: a los más pijos o adinerados, a los del pueblo que vivían cerca de la discoteca o los rebeldes y alternativos de los suburbios de las capitales. Sin embargo, esa moda no se compraba en las mismas tiendas que ahora ni bajo las condiciones actuales.
En los años 80 y en los 90 solo se contaba con establecimientos a pie de calle o tal vez en algún piso, existía El Corte Inglés y un par de centros comerciales o los mercadillos, ya sea los tradicionales de los pueblos o El Rastro en Madrid. Internet se estaba desarrollando y extendiéndose pero no en España donde todavía no había emergido el comercio online tal como lo conocemos. La globalización daba sus primeros pasos con lo cual tampoco se tenía acceso a la moda juvenil tipo low cost. Desde Uppers hacemos un repaso a los looks 'bakala' que marcaron tendencia.
1. Los abrigos Ciertas prendas como la bomber o la cazadora vaquera con la que se abrigaban los bakalas en invierno se han seguido llevando año tras año. Lo más preciado era la chaqueta de piel “biker ” con cremalleras asimétricas, solapas anchas y un corte ajustado . Se diseñó para los moteros hasta que Marlon Brandon y James Dean la convirtieron en un icono de rebeldía. Después la hicieron suya los integrantes de grupos como Depeche Mode con una camiseta debajo de modo que sus fans se morían por vestir una igual.
Otro abrigo que se generalizó fue el plumífero de Pedro Gómez . Se hacían a medida en Madrid en colores chillones como el verde, el amarillo, el rosa… pero solo podían permitírselo los más pudientes. Cuentan que se popularizó porque lo robaban continuamente. Los “pedrogomez” de aquel entonces se los ponían los bakalas para hacer su peregrinación de discotecas y no pasar frío en el parking. En su caso, esos plumíferos tan hinchados y tan chillones no han vuelto a salir a la calle tal como los diseñaba el mismo Pedro Gómez. Los plumíferos llevan unos cuantos formando parte del fondo de armario del invierno pero son más elegantes y en colores neutros o muy oscuros.
2. Prendas recicladas La moda bakala era un cúmulo diverso de propuestas. Se apostaba por atuendos alternativos como los de la marca 3000 que fundó en Berlín en 1989 Frank Schütte. Era ropa muy atrevida cosida con materiales reciclados que por supuesto no resistía la exigencia de La Ruta pero se la ponían los DJs y tras ellos la buscaban todos los demás. La marca diseñó minifaldas con bolsas de plástico, vestidos de noche de poliéster y camisetas con mensajes provocadores que inundaron las discotecas. Todas esas ideas, o casi todas, se siguen viendo cada noche de los fines de semana.
3. Camisas bicolor abotonadas hasta el infinito La ruta del bakalao igualmente la recorrían los pijos de Valencia o los veraneantes de todos esos pueblos que se asoman al mar como Cullera o Gandía. Les gustaba lucir camisa pero abrochada hasta el último botón aunque no llevaran corbata. Eran lisas, de tejidos fluidos y con caída , con dibujos imposibles o bicolor como si cada manga o lateral fuera una casilla del ajedrez. Tales modelos no pasaron la barrera de las siguientes generaciones aunque sí el hecho de llevar abrochados todos los botones.
4. Polos de manga larga, clásicos y aburridos También abundaban los polos de manga corta de cara a la primavera pero en el invierno se imponían los de manga larga, con cuello blanco de tela gorda y en rayas gruesas blancas combinadas con rayas de colores llamativos como el azul, el morado o el verde. Prácticamente estos mismos polos están ahora en muchos de los escaparates de las tiendas como una propuesta para este otoño de 2024.
5. Pantalones vaqueros o de cuero siempre rectos Una prenda común de los bakalas, ya fueran chicos o chicas, era el vaquero en color claro o en negro o el pantalón de piel también en negro. Lo más característico era su hechura de pierna recta y de tiro alto , unas características que no han perdurado en el tiempo.
6. Cinturones marcando cintura Otro denominador común de esa moda techno y discotequera era el cinturón de cuero o de piel en negro con tachuelas , con las costuras marcadas y una hebilla generosa. Era raro no enseñarlo con la camisa o la camiseta metida por dentro.
7. Camisetas de Destroy o de Boy London Las camisetas que se comercializaban en nuestro país en la década de los ochenta y los noventa eran bastante aburridas, de modo que muchos pagaban fortunas por las que ponían a la venta sus grupos favoritos. Ciertas marcas extranjeras también eran muy solicitadas como las Destroy T-shirt que diseñó Vivienne Westwood a mediados de los setenta y las vendía en su tienda en Londres. Otra de las marcas preferidas de los bakalas era Boy London, cuyo artífice era Stephane Raynor y que incluyó en los estampados el logo del smiley , el símbolo del acid house que también gustaba mucho a los bakalas.
8. New Balance y Nike Un aspecto llamativo de la moda de la Ruta del Bakalao era el calzado. Debía cumplir dos requisitos: comodidad y resistencia. Se bailaba tres días seguidos en la pista pero también en los aparcamientos de tierra de las discotecas y los pies debían soportar con los mismos zapatos puestos todas esas horas que duraba la fiesta. Los más pudientes lucían las deportivas New Balance o las Nike Air Max. El resto de bakalas calzaba camperas negras o botas anchas de punta redonda o cuadrada.
9. Gafas Vuarnet El complemento indispensable eran las gafas de sol para soportar la claridad de las mañanas. Las más buscadas eran las de la marca Vuarnet. La moda imponía los cristales oscuros casi negros con la montura de pasta rectangular o la ovalada en metal y dorado.
10. Collares de cuero o gorra Ya fuera con un top o una camisa las chicas completaban el look atándose al cuello una tira de cuero y no un collar . Solían tener unos dos dedos de ancho y estaban decoradas con tachuelas. Los chicos por su parte no salían de discotecas sin gorra.
11. El flequillo de las chicas En esos años estaba de moda el flequillo pero no existía la plancha de pelo para dejarlo impecable y liso, con lo cual la melena se recogía en una coleta alta o se dejaba al aire para que la humedad del mar hiciera de las suyas.
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